A DIRECTIONAL PREDICTION MODEL OF WAVES WITH VARIABLE WIND

Juan R. Acinas

Abstract


A model of the response of the direction of the waves to changing winds is presented. First the theoretical results that associate an average direction of energy propagation to every wave component is introduced. From this model, numerical results are presented both by simulations of ideal wind veering situations and compared with field data taken from pitch and roll buoys.

Keywords


directional prediction model; wind waves

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