A NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE DEFORMATION IN SURF ZONE

Akira Watanabe, Mohammad Dibajnia

Abstract


A numerical model is presented for nearshore wave deformation due to shoaling and breaking, and to decay and recovery in the surf zone. The model is based on a set of time-dependent mild slope equations including a term of wave energy dissipation caused by breaking. Its applicability is demonstrated by comparisons between the computations and the measurements of cross-shore distributions of the wave height and potential energy over typical beach configurations.

Keywords


surf zone; numerical model; wave deformation

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