DIRECTIONAL SEA STATE NEAR THE ISLAND OF SYLT

Abstract

In the scope of a joint research program dealing with erosion problems of the island of Sylt in the North Sea, wave measurements with two pitch-and-roll buoys are carried out in order to obtain more detailed information on the sea state with regard to wave dependent morphological processes. The instrumentation is described. Results from the directional analysis of closely spaced buoys are compared, showing good agreement in significant parameters and in distributions in the frequency range. Differences between wave and wind directions are discussed. A method of separating double peak spectra by fitting theoretical shallow water spectra to the measured energy density distributions is presented.