ABOUT THE ENERGY DISSIPATION OVER BARRED BEACH

Johannes Oelerich, Hans-Henning Dette

Abstract


Since wave energy dissipation in the surf zone is a stochastic process closed mathematical formulations cannot be expected. The dissipation was computed using several analytical and/or empirical approaches and compared with prototype measurements in the Big Wave Flume (GWK) in Hannover as well as with field measurements from the west coast, of the Island of Sylt/North Sea. Generally good agreements were found for moderate energy dissipation conditions (spilling-breaker), whereas in the case of plunging breakers, however, the fitting is not solved satisfactory.

Keywords


barred beach; energy dissipation

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