COHERENT EDDIES INDUCED BY BREAKERS ON A SLOPING FIELD

Nobuhiro Matsunaga, Kosei Takehara, Yoichi Awaya

Abstract


The separation of boundary layer occurs periodically near a breaking point when incident waves climbing up a sloping bed are about to break. Not the breaker but the separation forms an unsteady coherent eddy, which suspends a large amount of bed material. A row of steady vortices has been found along the water surface of an offshore zone. Its formation is due to the shear instability between shoreward steady flow induced near the bed and offshore steady flow near the water surface. Moving in the offshore direction, the steady vortices repeat amalgamation each other and increase their intervals at the order of mean water depth. They decay after reaching to the region where the shear rate is not enough between the two steady flows. This shear instability may be excited by the periodic separation of boundary 1aye r.

Keywords


sloping field; coherent eddy; breaking wave; breaker induced eddy

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