ON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING

E.P.D. Mansard, E.R. Funke, J.S. Readshaw, R.K. Girard

Abstract


The results of a 1:40 scale physical model investigation into the shoaling process are described. The model simulated a nearly constant slope of 1:40 with wave measurements made at a depth of approximately 25 and 9 m. Two hundred individual tests were undertaken, with four offshore significant wave heights as the only test variant. The results indicate that the most severe nearshore wave conditions do not occur with the worst offshore conditions. There is evidence of a significant increase in low frequency wave energy in the nearshore zone.

Keywords


shoaling; wave transformation; wave statistics

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