MATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WAVE-INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS

Donghoon Yoo, Brian A. O'Connor

Abstract


The paper presents a mathematical model for describing wave climate and wave-induced nearshore circulations. The model accounts for current-depth refraction, diffraction, wave-induced currents, set-up and set-down, mixing processes and bottom friction effects on both waves and currents. The present model was tested against published experimental data on wave conditions within a model harbour and shown to give very good results for both wave and current fields. The importance of including processes such as advection, flooding and current-interaction in coastal models was demonstrated by comparing the numerical results without each process to the results from the complete scheme.

Keywords


mathematical model; circulation; nearshore circulation

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.