SEDIMENT TRANSPORT DUE TO BREAKING WAVES

Tomoya Shibayama, Akihiko Higuchi, Kiyoshi Horikawa

Abstract


In the surf zone, the agitation of the bed materials by breaking waves is strong and the suspended sand concentration in the vicinity of the wave plunging point is extremely high. Sand movement in this region was observed and sand concentration was measured in a wave flume. The sand movement in the region was divided into the following two categories: 1) sand suspension due to the large vortex which is created by wave plunging, and 2) sand deposition under turbulent flow. The condition for exciting this suspension process was considered and the result was well explained by the two parameters which are the deep water wave steepness and the bottom slope. Then a numerical model of the sediment suspension process was formulated and the process was well simulated by the model.

Keywords


breaking waves; sediment transport

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