NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

Hitoshi Nishimura, Tsuguo Sunamura

Abstract


This paper presents an overall numerical model for predicting beach profile changes due to waves. The local rate of net on/offshore sediment transport is empirically formulated as a function of the Ursell number and Hallermeier parameter. A sub-model of two-dimensional wave transformation includes the wave shoaling, breaking and damping in a surf zone. It is combined with another sub-model of beach profile change for the analyses of wave-profile interaction. The validity of the model is examined through hindcasting of profile changes observed in ordinary and prototype-scale flumes.

Keywords


beach profile; profile change; numerical simulation

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.