Abstract
This paper presents an overall numerical model for predicting beach profile changes due to waves. The local rate of net on/offshore sediment transport is empirically formulated as a function of the Ursell number and Hallermeier parameter. A sub-model of two-dimensional wave transformation includes the wave shoaling, breaking and damping in a surf zone. It is combined with another sub-model of beach profile change for the analyses of wave-profile interaction. The validity of the model is examined through hindcasting of profile changes observed in ordinary and prototype-scale flumes.
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.