TWO-DIMENSIONAL EMPIRICAL EIGENFUNCTION MODEL FOR THE ANALYSIS AND PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

T.W. Hsu, S.R. Liaw, S.K. Wang, S.H. Ou

Abstract


A two-dimensional empirical eigenfunction model is proposed for the analysis and the prediction of beach profile change due to longshore and cross-shore sediment transports. Beach profile data from Redhill coast, Taiwan, measured every two months at 150 meters interval along the detached breakwaters are analyzed and the relative importance from two directions is investigated. Furthermore, by employing the method of Markov process and linear regression, a prediction model is formulated which takes into account the effect of breaking waves, bottom sediment and radiation stress of waves. This 2-D model is shown to be effective in the analysis and the prediction of beach changes near the coastal structures.

Keywords


eigenfunction model; beach profile; profile change; 2D model

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