DIRECTIONAL NEARSHORE WAVE PROPAGATION AND INDUCED CURRENTS
Abstract
Recently, a depth and current refraction model has been developed for the computation of directionally spread, random wave propagation in coastal regions (Booij et al., 1985). For the verification of the performance of this model laboratory measurements in a directional, shallow water wave basin were conducted. Specific attention was given to the verification of the new features of the numerical model, viz. the effects of directional spreading and ambient current field on the wave propagation and transformation process, and the change of characteristic spectral wave frequency due to wave dissipation processes.
Keywords
wave propagation; wave induce currents; wave direction
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