SHOALING AND REFLECTION OF NONLINEAR SHALLOW WATER WAVES

Padmaraj Vengayil, James T. Kirby

Abstract


The formulation for shallow water wave shoaling and refraction diffraction given by Liu et al (1985) is extended to include reflected waves. The model is given in the form of coupled K-P equations for forward and backward propagation. Shoaling on a plane beach is studied using the forward-propagating model alone. Non-resonant reflection of a solitary wave from a slope and resonant reflection of periodic waves by sinusoidal bars are then studied.

Keywords


shallow water; nonlinear waves; shoaling; reflection

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