IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION AFFECTED BY OPPOSING CURRENTS
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Keywords

irregular wave
wave transformation
current
opposing current

How to Cite

Sakai, S., Hiyamizu, K., & Saeki, H. (1986). IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION AFFECTED BY OPPOSING CURRENTS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(20), 53. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.53

Abstract

Transformation of irregular waves affected by opposing currents on a sloping sea bed was discussed, experimentally and theoretically. It was found that representative values of wave height, such as a significant wave height, are larger before breaking and the wave height decaying occurs more promptly in a surf zone as opposing currents become dominant, and that characteristics of a irregular wave transformation are determined by the dimensionless unit width discharge q* and the deep water wave steepness. This means that the effects of opposing currents on irregular wave transformation are qualitatively identical to that on the regular waves. A transformation model of irregular waves affected by opposing currents was presented. In the model, formulations for a regular wave transformation, in which the effects of opposing currents were taken into account, were applied to individual waves defined by zero-down" cross-method from irregular wave profiles. Comparisons between experimental results and the prediction by the model showed that the present model gives a good explanation for wave height distributions and the experimental finding that the surf zone is moved offshore by opposing currents.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.53
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