DECOMPOSITION OF NONLINEARLY REFLECTED IRREGULAR WAVES BY THE WAVE BREAKING AND DEFORMATION

A. Kimura

Abstract


This paper deals with a new method to decompose incident and reflected waves from the measured data of irregular standing waves. The theory by Goda et al. is extended to cope with the reflection from such a coastal structure that has a sloping surface and brings about different reflection coefficient for each incident waves. Irregular standing waves are decomposed into incident and reflected irregular waves by the shortterm wave spectrum analysis method. And the reflection coefficient of the approximated zero-up-cross waves are defined as the ratio between envelopes of these irregular wave profiles. The calculated reflection coefficients can be discussed in terms of the incident zero-up-cross wave parameters such as a wave steepness, Ursell parameter, etc. An effective wave gauge system to measure irregular standing waves which have a wide band spectrum is also discussed and a method to compose the system is proposed.

Keywords


irregular wave; reflected waves; wave breaking; wave deformation

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