LATERAL MIXING AND WAVE DIRECTION IN THE WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION REGICN

Kyoung Ho Kim, Sawaragi Toru, Deguchi Ichiro

Abstract


The lateral mixing coefficient, in which the wave energy dissipation by wave breaking is taken account and the assumption of Richardson's 4/3 power law is involved, is derived for the surf zone and the diffusion of tracers injected in the wave-current interaction region is discussed experimentally to investigate the proposed lateral mixing coefficient. Furthermore measurements of velocity field on the three dimensional sloping beach of plane wave flume have been made by a bidirectional electromagnetic current meter. The results were used to investigate the characteristics of the structure of on-offshore and alongshore mean currents arid the techniques for the determination of wave angle in the surf zone.

Keywords


lateral mixing; wave direction; wave/current interaction

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