BEACH FORESHORE RESPONSE TO LONG-PERIOD WAVES

P.A. Howd, R.A. Holman

Abstract


A field experiment has been carried out to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations have heights of up to 6 cm with typical time scales of 8 to 10 minute periods. They can be characterized in two ways: by the progression of the fluctuation up the foreshore slope (landward), and by the decrease in the root-mean-square (RMS) height of the fluctuations as they progress landward. Analysis of runup time series obtained by time-lapse photography concurrent with the sediment level measurements reveals long-period waves of undetermined origin which are positively correlated with the sediment level fluctuations. This strongly suggests that the waves are responsible for forcing the sediment level fluctuations.

Keywords


long period waves; beach foreshore; foreshore response

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