COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

James T. Kirby, Philip L.F. Liu, Sung B. Yoon, Robert A. Dalrymple

Abstract


The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow water waves. Two methods of approach are taken. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral wave components in a slowly varying two-dimensional domain. The second method modifies the equation of Kadomtsev s Petviashvili to include varying depth in two dimensions. Comparisons are made between present numerical results, experimental data and previous numerical calculations.

Keywords


shallow water; nonlinear waves; refraction; diffraction; combined refraction-diffraction

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