A NONLINEAR MODEL OF IRREGULAR WAVE RUN-UP HEIGHT A D PERIOD DISTRIBUTIONS ON GENTLE SLOPES

Toru Sawaragi, Koichiro Iwata

Abstract


This paper discusses the probability distributions of irregular wave run-up height and period on gentle slopes. Assuming that the long period component appeared on the run-up oscillation corresponds to the incident envelope wave period, a nonlinear model to estimate the probability distributions of run-up heights and periods is proposed. Laboratory experiments on gentle slopes of 1/15,1/30 and 1/40, and field measurements on a natural sandy beach with swash slopes of 1/6 to 1/14 were performed to examine the proposed model. The proposed model is shown to agree with the experiments.

Keywords


gentle slope; height distribution; period distribution; nonlinear model; irregular waves

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