Christopher T. Carlson


Field measurements of narrow-band incident wind waves and the resulting run-up were made photographically at two different natural sand beaches along San Francisco Bay. The run-up spectra derived from the field-measured time series show some energy at the incident-wave peak frequency, with the predominant run-up spectral energy concentrated in frequency bands below the incident-wave peak frequency. Observations of the swash time series recorded at both beaches indicate that the low-frequency run-up is generated on the beach face by the interaction between the run-up and backwash during the swash cycle. Coherence analyses indicate that the offshore incident waves and run-up on the beach are not linearly correlated but that the run-up is correlated in the alongshore direction. The slopes of the log-log run-up spectra computed over the frequency band of the incident waves are all approximately -3. Statistical hypothesis tests were used to compare the empirical run-up cumulative distribution functions with both normal and Rayleigh distribution functions.


field study; run-up; dissipative beach

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