SHALLOW WATER WAVES: A SPECTRAL APPROACH

Charles L. Vincent

Abstract


Bouws et al. (1983, 1984) have shown that wind sea spectra in finite depth water can be described by a self-similar spectral equation that in the deep water limit is the JONSWAP spectrum (Hasselmann et al. 1973). This paper shows that the spectral parameter a is linked to wave steepness, for wind sea and swell; presents a simple model for wave transformation across the surf zone; and shows that the spectral theory provides data similar to the results of Bretschneider (1958) for shallow water wave growth.

Keywords


shallow water; wave spectrum

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