A SHALLOW WATER DIRECTIONAL WAVE RECORDER

S.J. Buchan, R.K. Steedman, S.A. Stroud, D.G. Provis

Abstract


Shallow water wave theory shows that estimates of directional wave climate may be obtained from the measurement of near-bottom pressure and horizontal velocity components. Recent developments in low powered sensors and high density data loggers, incorporated into a bottom-mounted directional wave recorder, make the collection of directional shallow water wave data possible on a routine basis. The instrument is compact, robust, reliable and easily manageable from small craft, providing deployment capacities of up to four months. Analysis methods have been developed which provide for conversion of the recorded data to useful, convenient information.

Keywords


wave measurement; wave recorded; shallow water; wave direction

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