WAVE ATTENUATION AND SET-UP ON A BEACH

I.A. Svendsen

Abstract


A theoretical two-dimensional model for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone is described and compared to measurements. The integral wave properties energy flux Ef, and radiation stress Sxx are determined from crude approximations of the actual flow in surf zone waves. Some physical aspects of the outer region are discussed and found to agree with our knowledge of the waves seawards and shorewards of this region.

Keywords


set up; wave attenuation; beach set up

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