SHORE-PARALLEL FLOWS IN A BARRED NEARSHORE

Brian Greenwood, Douglas J. Sherman

Abstract


A field experiment to measure the horizontal and vertical structure of shore-parallel, nearshore currents was conducted at Wendake Beach, Georgian Bay, Canada, in 1980. Waves and currents were measured with continuous resistance wire wave staffs and bi-directional, electromagnetic current meters, respectively. Substantial variations from theoretical horizontal velocity profiles were found as an influence of small amplitude nearshore bars. Data smoothing resulted in a Longuet- Higgins type mixing parameter estimate of P=0.18. Vertical velocity profiles analysis suggests that an estimate of mean, surf zone roughness length is of the order of lxl0-3m.

Keywords


barred nearshore; shore parallel flos

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