MODELING ON-OFFSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SURFZONE

James A. Bailard

Abstract


An energetics-based surfzone sediment transport model was evaluated in its ability to predict on-offshore sediment movements using current meter and beach volume measurements from the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study at Torrey Pines Beach, California. The magnitude of pertinent wave velocity moments were also evaluated from the same data set. These moments were found to be adequately represented by linear functions of the significant wave height. Because of the apparent noise in the beach volume measurements and the limited duration of the current meter records, the results of the model evaluation were inconclusive. However, a simplified version of the model, when coupled with estimated wave velocity moments, was found to mimic observed on-offshore sediment movements as a function of significant wave height.

Keywords


surf zone; crossshore transport; sediment transport; transport modeling

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