THE FLUID MECHANICS OF WAVES APPROACHING BREAKING

D.H. Peregrine, E.D. Cokelet, P. McIver

Abstract


Numerical computations of water waves deforming until an overhanging, incipient jet has formed near the crest are studied in detail. Velocity and acceleration plots lead to the identification of three regions in the water which appear to be significant in the approach to breaking. In particular there is a region with particle accelerations greater than the acceleration of gravity.

Keywords


fluid mechanics; wave mechanics; near breaking waves

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