A MEASUREMENT OF SLOPE, CURVATURE, AND DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF WIND WAVES IN LAKE MICHIGAN

Paul C. Liu

Abstract


Wave recording activity among coastal and oceanic engineers has increased rapidly in recent years, and ample wave data covering a large number of gage stations are now available. Directional wave spectra, however, are relatively scarce. The detailed knowledge of directional wave characteristics that correlate with the simultaneously recorded wind field is needed immediately for a proper understanding of the generation, growth, and propagation of a wave field. The data are necessary for engineering design, for verification and improvement of wave prediction models, and for provision of appropriate ground truth for calibrating remote sensing measurements. This paper represents the results of an effort to fulfill this need.

Keywords


slope measurement; curvature measurement; directional spectra; wind waves; Lake Michigan

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