WAVE SHOALING CALCULATED FROM COKELET'S THEORY

Abstract

Cokelet's numerical non-linear theory for progressive, periodic gravity waves is applied to the two-dimensional shoaling of finite amplitude waves on a beach up to breaking. The shoaling curves so obtained are compared with existing shoaling curves calculated from different finite amplitude wave theories, and with existing experimental data. It was found that the shoaling curves calculated from Cokelet's theory predict higher wave height ratios than other curves. The agreement between the present curves and the experimental results is good except near the breakpoint, where the wave height of the present curves is larger than the experimental wave height.