WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE

I.A. Svendsen, P.A. Madsen, J. Buhr Hansen

Abstract


The equations describing conservation of mass, momentum and energy in a turbulent free surface flow are derived for a controle volume extending over the whole depth. The effect of the turbulent surface oscillations are discussed but neglected in the following analysis, where the equations are applied to the energy balance in a surf zone wave motion. This leads to results for the wave height variation and the velocity of propagation. The results cannot be reconciled completely with measurements and the concluding discussion is aimed at revealing how the model can be improved.

Keywords


surf zone; wave characteristics

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