H. Lundgren, S.E. Sand


In many applications there is a great need for a correct description of the natural, irregular three-dimensional sea and its reproduction in physical and numerical models. Because of the tremendous difficulties inherent in the nonlinearities, the science of coastal engineering is still very far from this ultimate goal. Indeed, the scope of this paper is comparatively very modest: To describe and reproduce natural, irregular two-dimensional waves, i.e. waves propagating in one direction in a flume. In addition, this scope is fulfilled only by assuming linear superposition of Fourier terms. As opposed to the usual spectral description, the deterministic description presented here does not eliminate the phase information in the wave train recorded. Because of the nonlinearities, however, the linear deterministic description invariably degenerates with the distance travelled by the waves. It appears though from the present paper that the degeneration is fairly slow even for rather steep waves.


wave train; natural wave train; wave reproduction

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