Ary Roos, Jurjen A. Battjes


An experimental study is presented of some characteristic parameters of the flow in the up-rush and down-rush of periodic waves breaking on a plane, smooth slope. The water layer thickness has been measured as a function of time at four locations above still water level. Discharges and particle velocities have been calculated. The results have been made nondimensional on the basis of Hunt's formula for the run-up height. They appear to be either independent of the wave steepness H/L and slope gradient tan Ct or to be a function of a single similarity parameter £ - tana / yH/L only. An hypothesis is stated concerning a relation between the mean rate of overtopping of a dike by waves, and the run-up which would occur under the same circumstances on an uninterrupted slope. On the basis of this hypothesis the overtopping volume per wave can be normalized so as to make it independent of slope angle and wave steepness. A comparison of the result with measurements from other sources indicates a rough agreement.


run up; periodic waves; flow characteristics

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