WAVE SPECTRUM OF BREAKING WAVE

Toru Sawaragi, Koichiro Iwata

Abstract


By wave breaking, an incident monocromatic wave is transformed to a wave composed of its harmonic frequency waves inside a surf zone. Based on a dimensional consideration, the "-1 power law ", the "-2 power law ", the "-2/3 power law " and the "-1/2 power law " on the wave height spectrum ,H(f), are derived as sorts of equilibrium spectra. These spectra except"-l/2 power law" are shown to agree with experimental data.

Keywords


breaking wave; spectrum; wave spectrum

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