WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION OF WIND WAVES OVER LONG WAVES

Shan-Hwei Ou, Frederick L.W. Tang

Abstract


Influence of long wave on the wave height distribution of wind waves was studied through the laboratory experiment. Experiments were conducted in a wind-wave tank where the wind waves were generated by a wind blower and the long waves were developed by an oscillating pendulum type wave generator. The wave height distribution of the wind waves over long wave is slightly different from the Rayleigh distribution in the small steepness of long wave. The ratios between the average of highest l/n-th waves vary with the steepness of long waves. The magnitude and the location of the spectral peak of wind waves are altered. The amount of the attenuation of wind wave energy is larger than the results of Mitsuyasu (1966).

Keywords


wave height distribution; wind waves; long waves

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