J.A. Battjes


This paper deals with the following aspects of periodic water waves breaking on a plane slope breaking criterion, breaker type, phase difference across the surfzone, breaker height-to-depth ratio, run-up and set-up, and reflection. It is shown that these are approximately governed by a single similarity parameter only, embodying both the effects of slope angle and incident wave steepness. Various physical interpretations of this similarity parameter are given, while its role is discussed m general terms from the viewpoint of model prototype similarity.


surf; surf similarity

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