A LOW-COST INSHORE WAVE DIRECTION INDICATOR

G. de F. Retief, A.P.M. Vonk

Abstract


Although many attempts have been made in the past to measure the direction of propagation of ocean waves, a need for a simple, reliable solution to the problem has remained. The technique described here, intended for near-shore usage, makes use of a simple bottom-mounted flow direction indicator. The influence of rip and longshore currents on wave direction recordings is identified and a means of reducing these steady state current effects by a reduction in gauge sensitivity is presented, along with various possible recording and analysis techniques. Usefulness of the gauge is established as a simple engineering tool with certain limitations and examples are given of »'aire direction recordings related to meteorological data. A possible usage of the gauge FE an approximate sediment transport indicator is also proposed.

Keywords


wave direction; direction indicator

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