THE SPIRAL WAVEMAKER FOR LITTORAL DRIFT STUDIES

Robert A. Dalrymple, Robert G. Dean

Abstract


A technique for simulating an infinitely long beach in the laboratory is introduced, with the objective of eliminating end effects usually present with short straight beach sections. The technique involves the spiral wavemaker generating waves in the center of a circular basin. The wavemaker, consisting of a vertical right-circular cylinder oscillating in a small circle about its axis, is described in detail. Theoretical developments, using small-amplitude wave assumptions, show that the surface wave crests generated by the wavemaker may be described, at a particular time, as an Archimedian-type of spiral, with the wavemaker at its origin. Also, the crests impinge on the circular beach everywhere at the same angle of incidence. Experiments with a prototype spiral wavemaker verify the theory, with close results for shallow water waves. Littoral drift applications of the wavemaker are given.

Keywords


wavemaker; spiral wavemaker; littoral drift

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