RESEARCHES ON THE DEFORMATION OF WAVE SPECTRA IN INTERMEDIATE WATER AREA BY CALCULATION

Frederick L.W. Wang, Shan-Hwei Ou

Abstract


In order to devise more rational approach to predicat the wave features in intermediate water area, energy spectra in deep water area are to be changed to histograms, and every stripe of the histogram is to represent an elementary small amplitude wave. The deformation of such elementary waves over intermediate water area can be calculated theoretically by energy flux equation. Spectra in intermediate area can be worked out by summing up the wave energies deformed by shoaling, bottom friction and refraction. Calculation are carried out by computer. The peak of spectra will never change when it propagates from deep water to intermediate water area if the bottom contours are parallel to the shore line. Tangible process for using this approach to practical engineering problems is pending investigation.

Keywords


wave spectra; intermediate water; spectra deformation

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