Gustaf Richert


This paper describes an experimental investigation of shock pressures against breakwaters caused by "breaking waves. The study only considers shocks of a compressive type, which occur if the wave front is formed in such a way that an air cushion is entrapped between the wave and the wall. In this case the compression and expansion of the air cushion plays an important role m the pressure variation. Only waves preceded by non-breaking waves were used. For different combinations of bottom geometry and water depth the occurrence of shock pressures of different magnitudes was studied varying the wave height and the wave period. For some interesting combinations of bottom geometry and wave dimensions a series of tests were made to investigate the distribution over the wall of shock pressure and of shock impulse. The results, presented m diagrams and tables, have been commented on and analysed with special respect to the chosen test procedure.


shock pressure; breakwater pressure; investigation

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