EFFECT OF BEACH SLOPE AND SHOALING ON WAVE ASYMMETRY

M.D. Adeyemo

Abstract


This paper is concerned with the quantitative study of the geometrical asymmetry associated with shallow water oscillatory waves in the breaker zone. Three descriptions of wave asymmetry are defined and examined : (l) Wave vertical asymmetry i2^ Wave slope asymmetry and (3) Wave horizontal asymmetry The effects of shoaling, produced by beaches of different slope, on the wave asymmetry are examined. Six beach slopes in the range 1:4 to 1:18 were employed, and a quantitative correlation was found to exist between the wave slope asymmetry, wave horizontal asymmetry and the wave vertical asymmetry. An expression is given for the wave horizontal asymmetry based on the expression for the wave vertical asymmetry from the cnoidal wave theory. The theoretical study of wave slope asymmetry made by Biesel (1) and the results of the experimental work on the wave slope asymmetry in the present work are compared and gave a good agreement*

Keywords


beach slope; shoaling; wave asymmetry

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