A STUDY ON WAVE TRANSFORMATION INSIDE SURF ZONE

Kiyoshi Horikawa, Chin-Tong Kuo

Abstract


The wave transformation inside surf zone is treated analytically m this paper under the several appropriate assumptions. The theoretical curves computed numerically have a consistant agreement with the experimental data in the case of wave transformation on a horizontal bottom. On the other hand, m the case of wave transformation on a uniformly sloping beach, the analytical treatment seems to be inadequate to clarify the actual phenomena. Besides them the numerous data on wave height attenuation and others are presented m the graphical forms.

Keywords


wave transformation; surf zone; horizontal bottom

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.