NUMERICAL COMPUTATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DYNAMICS AND VELOCITY PROFILES USING A FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ MODEL

Rodrigo Cienfuegos, L. Duarte, L. Suarez, P. A. Catalán

Abstract


We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves
in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in
the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and
dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D
(Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer
mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory.

Keywords


boussinesq; infragravity; velocity profiles; SERR1D

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