DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION

J. G.H.R. Diephuis, J. G. Gerritze

Abstract


This paper deals with the problem of determining the wave characteristics in shallow water from those in deep water. In general this can be done by means of a refraction calculation. If the sea bottom topography is too irregular the height of the waves can be determined by means of a small-scale refraction model. In both cases, however, some additional effects have to be taken into account, viz. the influence of the bottom friction and the influence of the wind.

Keywords


wave refraction; model studies; energy balance

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