WATER WAVES DUE TO A LOCAL DISTURBANCE

J. E. Prins

Abstract


A model investigation of the characteristics of waves generated by a local disturbance was made in order to obtain comparison with the theories of UNOKI and NAKANO (1953) and KRANZER and KELLER (1955). The two-dimensional model for the case of initial local elevation or depression of uniform height of the water surface showed that certain wave characteristics such as phase periods and "interference" pattern could be described reasonably well within certain limits of water depth and height and extent of the disturbed area. Beyond those limits the leading part separated from the generated wave pattern as a solitary wave or a more complicated wave system. For a certain range of conditions the leading part was preceded by a bore during the first portion of the travel.

Keywords


wave flume studies; wave generation; wave theory

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