SPECTRAL DESCRIPTION OF ENERGY DISSIPATION IN BREAKING WAVE GROUPS
Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference
PDF

Keywords

wave breaking
wave groups
random waves
laboratory experiments

How to Cite

Kaihatu, J., & El Safty, H. M. (2011). SPECTRAL DESCRIPTION OF ENERGY DISSIPATION IN BREAKING WAVE GROUPS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(32), waves.19. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.19

Abstract

The dissipation characteristics of laboratory breaking wave groups and random waves are studied. A time-domain eddy viscosity model is used to represent the breaking wave, and the instantaneous dissipation time series deduced from measurements of free surface elevation. Fourier series of these time series yields the dissipation rate as a function of frequency, the frequency dependence of which has been shown to be the inverse of that of the spectral density of free surface elevation for random waves. It is shown that the inverse relationship between the dissipation rate and the free surface spectral density does not appear to hold for wave groups, likely due to the presence of generated long waves in the dissipation time series. These long waves introduce a periodicity into the dissipation time series and inhibit any true randomness from developing. The overall bulk dissipation is calculated from the dissipation rate for both the wave groups and random waves. It appears that, overall, the wave groups undergo a greater degree of dissipation than equivalent random waves.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.waves.19
PDF

References

Battjes, J.A., and J.P.F.M. Janssen. 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves, Proceedings of 14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 466-480.

Kaihatu, J.M., and Kirby, J.T. 1994. Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth. Physics of Fluids, 7, 1903-1914. http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.868504

Kaihatu, J.M., J. Veeramony, K. L. Edwards, and J.T. Kirby. 2007. Asymptotic behavior of frequency and wave number spectra of nearshore shoaling and breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 112, doi: 10.1029/2006JC003817. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003817

Kennedy, A.B., Q.J. Chen, J.T. Kirby, and R.A. Dalrymple. 2000. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and run-up. I: 1D. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39-47. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2000)126:1(39)

Kirby, J.T., and J.M. Kaihatu. 1996. Structure of frequency domain models for random wave breaking, Proceedings of 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 1144-1155.

Longuet-Higgins, M.S., and R.W. Stewart. 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to `surf beats'. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 13, 481-504. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877

Schaeffer, H.A., and I.A. Svendsen. 1988. Surf beat generation on a mild sloping beach. Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1058-1072.

Svendsen, I.A., and J. Veeramony. 2001. Wave breaking in wave groups, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 127, ASCE, 200-212.

Symonds, G., D.A. Huntley, and A.J. Bowen. 1982. Two-dimensional surf beat: long wave generation by a time varying breakpoint. Journal of Geophysical Research, 87, 233-244. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492

Thornton, E.B., and R.T. Guza. 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution, Journal of Geophysical Research, 88, 5925-5938. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925

van Dongeren, A.R., J. A. Battjes, T.T. Janssen, J. van Noorloos, K. Steenhauer, G. Steenbergen, and A.J.H.M. Reniers. 2007. Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 112, doi: 10.1029/2006JC003701. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2006JC003701

van Noorloos, J. 2003. Energy transfer between short wave groups and bound long waves on a plane slope. Master's thesis, Delft University of Technology.

Zelt, J.A. 1991. The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205-246. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(91)90003-Y

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.