LABORATORY OBSERVATIONS OF IMPACTS ON COARSE SEDIMENT BEACHES

Ian Ball, Edgar Mendoza-Baldwin, David Simmonds, Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña, Dominic E Reeve

Abstract


In this paper we present laboratory observations of plunging wave breaker impact pressure responses on a steep coarse-grained beach, extending previous work conducted by Pedrozo-Acuña et al. (2008). Scale laboratory measurements of plunging breaker impact events are reported and compared with the previous full-scale tests. These tests extend the previous relationships to a wider range of surf-similarity parameters and indicate a continued reduction in impact pressure as the transition from plunging impacts to surging impacts is approached. Additional results from scale tests conducted on a smooth impermeable slope also indicate the presence of a maximum impact pressure within the plunging breaker region; however also suggest it may be necessary to include roughness and permeability in the parameterization of the impact pressure.

Keywords


gravel beach; wave impact; plunging breaker; pressure

References


Bullock, G.N., Obhrai, C., Peregrine, D.H. and Bredmose, H. 2007. Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 1: Results from large-scale regular wave tests on vertical and sloping walls, Coastal Engineering, 54, 602-617. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.12.002

Frigaard, P., and Brorsen, M., 1995. A time-domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves, Coastal Engineering, 24, 205-215.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(94)00035-V

Goda, Y., 1975. Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone. Coastal Engineering in Japan. 18, 13-26.

Jamal, M.H., Simmonds D.J., and Magar V., 2010. Modelling Infiltration on Gravel Beaches with an Xbeach Variant. Proceedings of 32 nd

International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE Submitted Massel, S.R., Przyborska, A., and Przyborski, M., 2004. Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 1. Oceanologia, 46 (3) 383-404.

Mason, T., and Coates, T.T., 2001. Sediment transport processes on mixed beaches: a review for shoreline management. Journal of Coastal Research, 17 (3), 645-657.

Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Simmonds, D.J., Otta, A.K. and Chadwick, A.J. 2006. On the cross-shore profile change of gravel beaches, Coastal Engineering, 53, 335-347.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.10.019

Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Simmonds, Chadwick, A.J., Silva-Casarin, R., 2007. A numerical–empirical approach for evaluating morphodynamic processes on gravel and mixed sand–gravel beaches, Marine Geology, 241, 1-18. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2007.02.013

Pedrozo-Acuña, A., Simmonds, D.J. and Reeve, D.E., 2008. Wave-impact characteristics of plunging breakers on gravel beaches, Marine Geology, 253, 26-35.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2008.04.013

Tsai, C.-P., Chen, H.-B., Hwung, H.-H., and Huang M.-J., 2005. Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes, Ocean Engineering, 32, 469-483.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.05.010


Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.