Takayuki Suzuki, Yoshiaki Kuriyama


A short-term swash zone beach profile change model focusing on berm formation and erosion was proposed using a 2.5-year data set of beach profiles and offshore waves. The investigation area was set from the maximum wave run-up position to the shoreline position at the mean tide level. The model was applied for the calculation of three months beach profile change. The results revealed that the model well predicts the beach profile change including the berm formation and erosion in a qualitative sense. Also, the variation trend of the calculated beach slope at the shoreline position of the mean tide level show a good agreement with that of the observed beach slope.


swash zone; beach profile change; modeling; field data


Baldock, T.E., P. Kim Son, P. Manoonvoravong, M.P. Barnes, and J.M. Alsina. 2007. Probabilisticdeterministic modeling of swash zone morphology, Coastal Sediments' 07, ASCE, 272-285.

Katoh, K., and S. Yanagishima. 1988. Predictive model for daily changes of shoreline, Proc. 21st Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, 1253-1264.

Katoh, K., and S. Yanagishima. 1992. Berm formation and berm erosion, Proc. 23rd Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, 2136-2149.

Katoh, K., and S. Yanagishima. 1993. Beach erosion in a storm due to infragravity waves, Rep. of PHRI, 31, 5, 73-102.

Kench, P.S., and R.W. Brander. 2006. Response of reef island shorelines to seasonal climate oscillations: South Maalhosmadulu atoll, Maldives, J. Geophys. Res. F: Earth Surface, 111, 1, F01001, doi: 10.1029/2005 JF000323.

Larson, M., S. Kubota, and L. Erikson. 2004. Swash-zone sediment transport and foreshore evolution: field experiments and mathematical modeling, Marine Geology, 212, 61-79.

Osborne, P.D., and G.A. Rooker. 1997. Surf zone and swash zone sediment dynamics on high energy beaches: West Auckland New Zealand, Coastal Dynamics '97, 814-823.

Puleo, J.A., R.A. Beach, R.A. Holman, and J.S. Allen. 2000. Swash zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of bore-generated turbulence, J. Geophys. Res., 105, C7, 17021-17044.

Suzuki, T., M. Takeuchi, N. Tomoda, S. Yamaguchi, and Y. Kuriyama. 2007. Spatial distribution of cross-shore sediment transport rate for berm formation and erosion, Coastal Sediments '07, ASCE, 2037-2048.

Suzuki, T., and Y. Kuriyama. 2008. Simple model of cross-shore sediment transport rate for berm formation and erosion, Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, 1762-1773.

Thomas, K.V., and M. Baba. 1986. Berm development on a monsoon-influenced microtidal beach, Sedimentology, 33, 4, 537-546.

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.